Hallo Jaap, Dank voor jouw bericht. Ik heb die site ook gezien en kan het daar bestellen, maar de shipping costs zijn belachelijk hoog! Daarom zoek ik naarstig naar een NEderlandse/EUropese leverancier. Maar tevergeefs.
Ik heb nu wel een Belgische fabrikant die fineer buizaam maakt door de vezels onzichtbaar te 'kneuzen'. Ik ga daar maar eens mee testen...
Groeten,[
LeonU
OTE=jaap;54715]Zag het afgelopen zomer ook staan in de winkel, maar had te weinig bagagemogelijkheden. Hier een
link waar je het kunt bestellen, en allerlei handige andere spullen voor het werken met vacuum en hieronder een beschrijving van de verschillende middelen. Het is op basis van glycol, dus misschien lukt het ook met antivries??
jaap
Even the highest grade veneers can have mild to moderate rippling. Crotch and stump veneer almost always arrive with a fair amount of rippling or bubbling. This is typically caused by areas where there is a high density of wood cells which expand and contract at a different rate than areas where the density of wood cells is less.
Veneers that have very slight "bubbling" can be glued to a panel without flattening. The key is to lightly mist the top side of the veneer with veneer softener after it has been placed on the freshly glued substrate. If you do spritz the veneer face, it's a good idea to mist the balance veneer as well (even if it is not bubbly).
The Quarter Trick
There's an old trick that I learned from a craftsman in Jarrettsville, Maryland for determining whether you need to flatten a veneer before you work with it in a vacuum press. You'll only need to do this trick once to learn when flattening is needed. After the first time, seeing and feeling the veneer will be enough to tell you if flattening is needed. Here's the trick.
Get a quarter ($.25) from between the cushions on your couch and place it on the veneer. Move it around the veneer and look for gaps between the veneer and the coin. If any place on the veneer shows more than 1/8" of gap under it, you'll need to flatten the veneer. Of course, this is just a rule of thumb. Some exceptionally brittle veneers will need to be flattened completely regardless of the gap.
Veneer Softeners 101
I've tried several types of softening solutions. Here's what I've found:
Fabric softener - I know there will be a large handful of readers who will say that they have used fabric softener to make veneer pliable. I won't argue this. Those folks are right. It will make veneer pliable but it will also leave a residue that can catastrophically affect the bonding of the material to the substrate.
Water - Indeed water will have a small and short-lived effect on a veneer's flexibility. It will not soften and condition the wood cells which is critical to getting the veneer flat without splitting. Additionally, if the water dries too fast, you can get splitting and cracking on the veneer sheet.
Homemade Softener - There's an age old recipe of consisting of 3 parts water, 2 parts yellow glue, 1 part vegetable glycerin, and 1 part denatured alcohol. This concoction will soften veneer but it's messy, hard to dry, and it will seal the wood cells which can have an effect on the wood's ability to accept a stain. Here's a tip. If you opt to use homemade veneer softener and find that it causes the veneer to stick to the absorbent paper, place a piece of fiberglass cloth between the veneer and the paper. Fiber glass cloth can be found at your local hardware store near the adhesives aisle.
Super Soft 2™ Veneer Softener - Despite its cheesy name, SS2 is by far, the most effective and user friendly veneer softener available. By temporarily plasticizing wood cells, veneers treated with Super-Soft 2 become easy to flatten and unbelievably flexible. It also does not affect the stain absorbing properties of the veneer.
Ultimately, it's the water in this product that makes the veneer soft and pliable. But there is another chemical in Super Soft which is extremely hygroscopic (it attracts moisture). This chemical remains in the veneer even after it feels dry. It is this remnant that keeps moisture in the veneer and allows the wood to remain soft for several days after the visible water content has evaporated. Check this out... if you get a drop of softener on your work bench and leave it there, the chemicals in SS2 will retain the water content and it won't evaporate for several days![/QUOTE]
